Surf Is Where You Find It, by Gerry Lopez
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Surf Is Where You Find It, by Gerry Lopez
Free Ebook Online Surf Is Where You Find It, by Gerry Lopez
Written by one of the most revered surfers of his generation, Gerry Lopez's Surf Is Where You Find It is a collection of stories about a lifetime of surfing. But more than that, it is a collection of stories about the lessons learned from surfing. It presents 38 stories about those who have been influential in the sport — surfing anytime, anywhere, and in any way. Lopez, an innovator in stand-up-paddle (one of the fastest growing water sports in the world), now shares his stories about pioneering that sport. Conveyed in Gerry's unique voice, augmented with photos from his personal collection, this book is a classic for surf enthusiasts everywhere.
Surf Is Where You Find It, by Gerry Lopez- Amazon Sales Rank: #180627 in Books
- Brand: Lopez, Gerry/ Pezman, Steve (FRW)/ Machado, Rob (FRW)
- Published on: 2015-05-26
- Original language: English
- Number of items: 1
- Dimensions: 9.40" h x 1.20" w x 6.50" l, .0 pounds
- Binding: Paperback
- 416 pages
Review This new edition has more stories and photos and makes for a fine coffee table addition to any surfer’s collection. . . . Lopez creates a space for the people around him to feel good. He takes the time to reflect on what surfing has brought him in life and reminds us to take the time to do the same. Santa Cruz SentinelGerry Lopez writes as beautifully as he bottom turns. Each chapter of Surf Is Where You Find It is a wave ridden or written by one of the most stylish humans to ever pick up a board or a pen. Gerry has been one of my heroes since I was a keiki and the more time I have spent with him the more my admiration of him has grown. Whether he is talking about memories of growing up bare foot during the sugar cane days of Hawai'i, wild experiences with some of the greatest characters in surfing's history, or early uncharted expeditions to the best waves in the world, every story has something the reader can take away and apply to their own life. Reading Surf Is Where You Find It made me feel proud to be a surfer again. I hope anyone who loves the ocean will read this book and be reminded of what riding waves is all about. -- Jack JohnsonThere will never be another Gerry Lopez, nor a more mandatory book to have on your shelf than Surf Is Where You Find It. -- Eastern Surf Reviews
From the Inside Flap Gerry Lopez writes as beautifully as he bottom turns. Whether he is talking about growing up bare foot during the sugar cane days of Hawai'i, wild experiences with some of the greatest characters in surfing's history, or early uncharted expeditions to the best waves in the world, every story has something the reader apply to their own life. Surf Is Where You Find It made me proud to be a surfer. --Jack JohnsonWritten by one of the most revered surfers of his generation, Gerry Lopez's Surf Is Where You Find It is a collection of stories about a lifetime of surfing. But more than that, it is a collection of stories about the lessons learned from surfing during that lifetimes. It presents 38 stories about those who have been influential in the sport--surfing any time, anywhere, and in any way. Lopez, an innovator in stand-up-paddle, one of the fastest growing water sports in the world, now shares his stories about pioneering that sport. Conveyed in Gerry's unique voice, augmented with photos from his personal collection, this book is a classic for surf enthusiasts everywhere.
About the Author Gerry Lopez made his reputation at Pipeline, then went on to a lifelong career in surfing, snowboarding, and stand-up-paddle. He co-founded Lightning Bolt® Maui surfboards, was instrumental in developing the high-performance shortboard, and has appeared in many films. He lives in Bend, OR.Rob Machado is an Australian-born American professional surfer from Cardiff-by-the-Sea, a community in Encinitas, CA.Steve Pezman is the founder of The Surfer’s Journal and has been the editor since 1992. He lives in San Clemente, CA.
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Most helpful customer reviews
2 of 2 people found the following review helpful. Much More Than Just A Surf Book! By Zendicant Pangolin This book reads a lot like the author, one suspects, which makes sense because it is something like an autobiography as told in a series of vignettes beginning with a child playing in the waters of Waikiki Beach and closing at a Javan reef break 60 years later.In between time we are held in thrall by the story-telling ability of the author. It probably isn't accurate to say that he is a natural story-teller, but his narratives read very naturally. One can tell that Mr. Lopez is not a full-time author, but also he knows how to turn a phrase and writes with intention. These are not the ramblings of a washed up surf doggie. This is a philosophical book that happens to be told with skill and wit by a man who seems to have a special affection for 'characters'.To those of you who surf, the descriptions of getting caught inside and pounded, or thrown down upon the hard surfaces of a coral reef and held down a lung-burstingly long time will have your stomach churning. Some of his talk story adventures caused all of the anxiety I'd left behind years and years ago to leap back into my throat from the pit of my stomach, but they also nourished long-suppressed feelings of the joy and contentment that a perfectly timed take off and bottom turn cause.The action takes place mainly in Hawaii, and mostly on the North Shore, but really everywhere: Town-side, Maui, Bali, Java, Oregon, even Chile, a little about Cali and Oz, and includes a cast of names that everybody of a certain surfing age will know and many that even younger surfers should recognize. While the stories about them are super entertaining and will sometimes have you hooting and laughing aloud, the author uses them to tell his over-arching story about experiencing life through surf: A great life.In a recent talk that Mr. Lopez gave at the PDX Patagonia, he teased that he is working on a new book that will discuss more fully the implications of the statement that "surf is where you find it," in the context of being present in the moment. He also spoke about the "Aloha Spirit."It occurred to me that Gerry Lopez is, or is becoming a Guru, or Dukun; anyway, that he may be an enlightened being.If he is able to synthesize his stated belief in destiny, being present in the moment, and the nature of Aloha Spirit with as deft a touch as he has shown writing this book, he will certainly change lives.Finally, I would like to speak to the physical Hard Cover book itself: It is Made in China in approx. 416 pps (6.75" x 9.75"). Ordinarily, China is about the last place one would go to publish a quality book. This one so far exceeded my preconceived notions that I have to take my hat off to the publisher, Patagonia, and the printer. The covers are clean, tight and evidently flawless. The paper likewise looks and feels to be of high quality, and even the color and b&w illustrations are very well reproduced (lots and lots of pictures). Granted, I did find the occasional spot and ink smear, and the spine is slightly cocked, but overall I am satisfied with the quality and presentation of the physical book.This book is not just for surfers. Anybody who likes to read good writing about life's adventures will enjoy it. People on a spiritual quest might also be affected by it.
0 of 0 people found the following review helpful. The book is 5 stars but the Kindle version is an lesser abridged copy of the book lacking many of the way cool surf pictures! By Jim C The book is 5 stars - the Kindle Edition is 1 star. If you buy the Kindle version - you are getting a fraction of an excellent book that lacks all the chapters and many, many of the amazing pictures in the book. I first bought the kindle version, loved it and then bought the book as a gift for a friend and I was shocked looking at the book at what is NOT IN THE KINDLE Version. Huh?I am not a surfer but a climber but loved the stories in the book.If Amazon is going to sell a Kindle version - they need to be upfront and tell the buyer what they are not getting compared to the original book form.
0 of 0 people found the following review helpful. The surf is up!!! By A Rochester I did not read this book---- I bought it for my husband.In his younger years he was a surfer and often rode the waves . The north shore of Hawaii was one of his favorite spots.He spent several evenings reading and was totally absorbed in this book.He truly enjoyed it. I suggested he write a review, He said, "You do it andgive it a 5 stars." Done!
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